Who: Florence & Philippe
Where: Tahanea, Tuamotus, French Polynesia
Multihull: Helia 44
www.Kermotu.com
We were told that it was one of the most beautiful atolls in the Tuamotus, so we were eager to discover it. We anchored between the two passes, in front of a pretty motu on which we landed to stretch our legs. The sun was shining, and we immediately fell in love with this deserted atoll. There were just a few fishermens’ and copra harvesters’ huts. Then, with the crew of another boat, we went diving near the smallest pass, to admire the coral. Some copra harvesters were still there, and they allowed us to leave the dinghy on their pontoon. They let their harvest of coconuts dry in the sun, opened and with their shells removed. In a small hut, the first bags are ready and more copra is still waiting. The smell is particular and intense. It can seem a little rancid because of the drying in the sun, but it is so exotic that it is a pleasure to breathe in this little barn. A little further on we came across a pretty little chapel, in good condition and decorated inside. We moved to the east of the atoll and after a period of windy weather, it was like being on a lake for a few days. The landscape became fantastic and hypnotic and we explored the translucent water by paddleboard. We met three Pomotus (the inhabitants of the Tuamotus). They live on the neighboring atoll of Faaite and come to Tahanea to work for two months and then spend a week at home. The work is hard. They produce 6 tons of copra in two months and then a boat comes to collect their production. They live in very basic conditions and move as soon as the motu is stripped of its coconuts and start again on another motu. They have a few reserves of basic products such as rice and their fishing supplements their meals.
