For years, we’ve been sailing out of southern Brittany from Quiberon to Royan, on the French Atlantic coast. At the time, in the early 1980s, we were two couples, with Les Sables d'Olonne as our home port. We used to sail with our young children to the islands of Yeu, Ré, Aix, Noirmoutier, Belle-île, Hoedic and so on. Then we discovered Corsica, and the West Indies. In 1993, I left with my wife and son for French Polynesia – the leeward islands of Raiatea, Tahaa, Huahine, Bora Bora and Maupiti. I’ve kept unforgettable memories of that trip, including the feeling of having sailed in paradise. So, in 1997, we brought our boating friends together and offered them the opportunity to celebrate the year 2000 there. This is how the Bora 2000 association was born. Every month, for three years, we each chipped in an amount to finance this cruising project. We managed, 20 of us, to charter two Privilege 45s. And we all experienced extraordinary moments. Meanwhile, two storms of unprecedented violence were hitting France...
On the way back, we decided to do it again regularly - every 3 or 4 years to allow us to fill up the piggy bank. We took trips to the Seychelles, Madagascar, Malaysia, Thailand and Cuba, still with two cats and made journeys ashore to discover each country.
That's how we ended up in Brazil back in March. We began a journey that took us from Salvador de Bahia to Brasilia, Ouro Preto, the Iguazu Falls... not to mention Rio de Janeiro, its Sugarloaf Mountain and its beaches, of course!
Time to set sail! A transfer, organized by Dream Yacht Charter, from our hotel in Rio to the Velrome marina near Angra dos Reis, saw us welcomed by Edouardo, from Brazil Yacht Charter, a company that works with DYC. We then take possession of our two Lagoon 400 S2s; Boa Vida for the group of 9 and Happy Nest for the group of 10. These are the only cats at the base, in an area where motor-yachts are in the majority. The handover is quick as the two skippers (my friend Patrice and myself) already each own a Lagoon 400 S2 with Dream Yacht Charter.
We leave to refuel at Marina Piratas, 45 minutes away by sea. The advantage of this mini trip is that we can be at the dock just in front of a large supermarket with a 3-hour free stop granted by the port. And the shopping carts can be taken down the pontoon right to the cats.
The sailing area that awaits us is a huge bay protected by a large island, the aptly named Ilha Grande. The weather forecasts a prevailing south-southeast wind, but in the end, we were to see very little wind, except for the passage between Ilha Grande and Paraty. Night falls quickly in the tropics; we leave for Lagoa Azul, in the very north of Ilha Grande. That's it, we're back to our little habits; we're sailing with a stopping point for the evening. The first one to arrive gives details of the anchorage over the VHF (whether there’s mooring balls or we’re anchoring). Afterwards, on each catamaran, swimming and meal preparation. The watches by hull method was adopted. One day starboard was on galley and cleaning duties, while port’s tasks were sailing and relaxation. The next day, it's the other way around. At nightfall, we all have a drink together on one catamaran. The hosts need to be imaginative! It’s an opportunity to discuss that day’s sailing and fishing, and the program for the next day. And all this often ends with a challenging trip back in the dinghy...
The first morning, we discover a wonderful anchorage off the beach at Freguesia de Dentro with a nice dive spot south of the Ilot Redonda. On view, beautiful corals, turtles and other tropical fish before we had to leave for Abraão, on the east coast. In this village, the largest on the island, there’s a very cool and typical tropical atmosphere in the evening with the main paved street and caipirinha bars, THE cocktail of Brazil. The next day, we tack towards Do Ponso Bay. We take a path that leads to one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, Lopes Mendes. Ilha Grande has a wild nature in store for us, but the few hikes ashore we undertake make us realize that the terrain climbs quickly and hard - the peaks reach nearly 1,000 m (3,300’). There are also particularly aggressive insects to deal with.
Next, we’re bound for Jorge Greco, in the south of Ilha Grande, an island of wild beauty where our two cats are the only ones in the world - with birds. As the anchorages to the south of Ilha Grande are not recommended at night - prevailing southerly wind, we head east towards the cove at Estrela where a steep path leads us to discover a 40-meter (130’) waterfall where we enjoy a refreshing swim. We continue our journey to Sitio Forte on the northwest coast. There, at the bottom of the bay, the couple who run the Telma restaurant prepares us a dinner with our feet in the sand. We continue towards Lagoa Verde, on the south side of Longa islet. A great coral diving spot with multicolored fish, spotted eagle rays and green turtles. In the evening, we opt for the beach of Aracatiba and its lively village. Our last day on Ilha Grande is an opportunity to visit the fishing villages of Vermelha and Proveta - a large cove occupied by a population cut off from the modern world. The best is saved for last, with the beach of Dos Meros, nestled in a bay as splendid as it is quiet. Overall, the anchorages and landscapes are magnificent in this area. It's a shame that water is often contaminated with plastic bags and bottles...
Three hours with wind on the beam sees us reach Paraty, a historic city which was very active in the 16th century – with gold and precious stones. The anchorage, in front of a long jetty, is muddy and shallow. Ashore, the cobbled alleys of the historic center force us to abandon our flip-flops (Havaianas, of course!) for sneakers. There are many craft shops, bars and restaurants, and other obligatory signs of tourism. But it is pretty. The next day, a stop at Marina 188 in Paraty to replenish the water and go to the supermarket by taxi. This is a marina with every comfort, and friendly staff. We then stopped at the very jet-set beach of Vermelha. In the maze of coves south-east of Paraty, the islets of Cotia, Mamangua and Cajaiba were much enjoyed and finally a special mention needs to be for the bay of Preguica with its magical anchorage of Saco da Velha.
It’s time to return to the northern islets in the big bay of Angra dos Reis. Don't miss, before you return to the base, the Canto Das Canoas restaurant, at the top of Vitorino beach: you’ll enjoy a moqueca, a typical Brazilian dish, a kind of fish and shellfish tagine with vegetables and coconut milk. Delicious!
What did it cost?
€ 12,750
We paid € 12,750 per catamaran for 15 days - including our owner's discount of 15% -, not to mention the purchase of a € 530 deductible per multihull that the crew members wanted to take out to avoid the risk of a € 6,000 deductible.
Overview of the weather
Doc : prévoir une icone météo
Max average air temperature: 25 to 30° C (77 to 86°F)
Min average air temperature: 19 to 23° C (66 to 73°F)
Water temperature: 22 to 26° C (72 to 79°F)
Annual sunshine: About 2,000 hours
Wind: Generally southerly and light - very rarely more than Beaufort Force 4
Rainfall: 1,036 mm/year (41 inches)
Best time of year: All year round! Warmer but also wetter in January, February and March.
