Off Madagascar, not far from the African continent, bathed by the waters of the Indian Ocean - positioning Reunion (the archipelago it forms along with Mauritius) geographically already sounds poetic, like an invitation to travel. Not as easily accessible as its West Indian sisters, less well-known than Polynesia, this French island is nevertheless worth a detour, even better if it is on your route! Red Sea? Gulf of Aden? Between piracy and conflicts, the round the world route via the trade winds passes via the discovery of this island. Having skirted the North of Australia, you leave Darwin. No stopover deserves to be the last and the next ones have enchanting names: Indonesia, Maldives, Seychelles. But no further. Because this route, which takes you still further north-west is like a mythical siren. When you come to descend towards the exit door formed by the Cape of Good Hope, the further west you are, the tighter the angle will be with the south-east trade winds, which blow all the year round in this part of the southern hemisphere. You’re not a fan of diving, for which the Maldives are a paradise? You can therefore opt for the most direct route, which passes via Christmas Island, then the Australian Cocos Keeling Islands, from which you can head directly for Mauritius, to the east-north-east of Reunion. Together with Rodrigues to the east, the three islands form the archipelago called the Mascareignes, after the name of the Portuguese explorer who landed there in the 15th century.
The lagoon can be calm and wonderful...
Reunion is an island that sailors loved and feared in the past. They feared it because the weather conditions and the profile of the coasts were not the most hospitable, and the hurricane season was sometimes extra long. However, as the south-easterly winds are of an unfailing constancy, the west or leeward coast is a safe bet for shelter, even though the number of refuges is limited. It is bordered by coral reefs, which form as many lagoons, (home to a remarkable biodiversity), and provide natural protection from the sea’s onslaughts. Three main anchorages can be recommended. First of all St Paul, called ‘la baie du meilleur ancrage’ (the bay of the best anchorage), and above all a historic anchorage, where the first French landed in the 17th century. Its black sand beach is a geological marker of the island. Heated by the sun, it will burn the most sensitive feet. Second possibility, St Gilles, a resort which also offers a harbor, but is not suited to round the world sailors. Finally, you can anchor in front of the port of St Leu. A long white sand beach, the lagoon, an attractive fishing port, and...the swell, which makes this a world famous surf spot. Only to be used in very settled weather, with trade winds which are neither too strong nor have too much south in their direction. In the latter case, and even in the case of a hurricane, two modern harbours will welcome you in complete safety: the port of La Pointe des Galets in the north, which offers all the nautical assistance you may need, and the port of St Pierre in the south. As access to the latter can prove to be much trickier because of the swell, in rough weather the former (also called Port Réunion) is to be preferred.
...or raging, with a big swell from the south!
Once safely in harbor, Reunion is not just an ordinary stopover... It’s an amazingly intermixed land, where tolerance reigns, and where rich, plural cultural identities, white magic, black magic, healers, popular beliefs and religions rub shoulders. The stunning beauty of its mountains, with their sheer cliffs, and the lush forests which cover part of the island will dazzle you. Then, the exuberant and very varied nature, and the numerous endemic animals will delight you during your exploration of this island. It is best discovered on foot, unveiling its multiple magical facets. Good walking shoes or boots will be your best allies. Sites such as Le Maïdo, which reveal breathtaking panoramas, are only accessible on foot, or...by helicopter! Guess which we recommend... The web site www.randopitons.re lists no fewer than 436 walks throughout the island! Easy or vertiginous paths, snaking round the mountain side, overhanging the clouds clinging to the relief – you will feel weightless. An environment which favors meditation, reflection... While walking towards the mountains (the Piton des Neiges, the island’s highest summit, reaches 3070 meters) you will inevitably pass via the valleys. However, beware of temperature differences. A twenty degree variation between mountains and sea is the minimum. This offers a variety of quite unique microclimates on a territory of this size (2,512km² - the equivalent of Luxembourg, less than a third of Puerto Rico). The island’s special richness, which allows its visitors to adapt their environment to their wishes or the day’s weather conditions. A real luxury! The opportunity to be able to see, drink, eat and sleep everything, everywhere, but above all to talk and to listen. To appreciate all the poetry of the Reunion Creole. To stop at a family home long enough to drink a ‘dodo’ beer, or a ‘café pointu’ at St Gilles. The best in the world according to the Japanese! However, at 150 euros a kilo...
The entrance to the ‘port’ of St Gilles can be tricky with a southerly swell…
Of course you mustn’t visit Reunion without having approached its beating heart, the Piton de la Fournaise... and its ‘lunar’ environment! It is currently one of the most active volcanoes on our planet. But this isn’t the only magic place on this intense island, which is in fact just a huge National Park. Another site not to be missed – ‘La Chapelle’ and its ‘Piton de Sucre’, the summit of a 200,000 year old magma chamber! But there are dozens of wonderful sites on Reunion, known worldwide. So we are going to reveal a few little places which are still almost secret. Such as the lava tunnels, above St Leu, hardly 10 minutes from the lagoon. Or again the ‘tikaz bleu’ gite, in the very heart of the Matafé cirque. At the end of the walk, you arrive at the back of the cirque. The ‘caz’ is open, the fridge is full of beer. There is bread and butter, and everything necessary for the ‘tidej’. Depending on whether you ordered it when booking, the owner will arrive just at aperitif time, with his saucepans, and...dinner will be served! Luxury, calm and voluptuous pleasure guaranteed. As background music, in the distance, the little ravine which descends to enlarge the river bed with pebbles (galets), which will arrive at the sea in the port of the same name. Back at sea level, we can’t recommend the little protected port of Marine Philippe enough, one of the oldest on Reunion. It is decorated with multicolored fishing boats - you should go there to buy your fresh fish from midday onwards. If you have been able to make some good contacts, you will perhaps have access to rounds of ‘Bataïlcok’ on the small island of Coco. In the hollow of the Marsouins River, on weekends, evenings, accompanied by lots of rum, in cocktails or punch, and a lively atmosphere, the famous cock fights take place! On your return, St Denis will seem very calm to you. This is what we like about it: its nonchalance. Its Creole architecture hides in the middle of lush gardens, as if sleeping in the heat. The gastronomy (what wouldn’t we give for a good ‘rougail saucisse’?) and music, Séga and Maloya in first place, both reflect the charm of the intermixing dear to this island. What a delight to let yourself be carried along by the gentle pace of life which characterizes Reunion so well.
The entrance to the majestic Cilaos cirque, to go to the Chapelle.
I had a dream. I dreamt of a country where Chinese, Arabs, Indians from India (all ethnic groups), Madagascans, Mauritians, Europeans, Cambodians, Vietnamese, Thais, Malaysians...all lived together in peace. This country exists, it is called Reunion. In the present context, it is really good to know that this is actually possible. A kind of paradise on earth with a plural identity and generous nature. If you want to keep it to yourself, don't mention that in addition, the weather is fine (almost) all the year round!
And the entrance to the Chapelle.
Practical Reunion, or...2 or 3 things I know about it
Time: UTC +4h
Official language: French
Authorities: Reunion is a French ‘Département’
Currency: the Euro
Health: Chikungunya is a viral infection transmitted by mosquitoes, on the upsurge in the Reunion archipelago since 2005. As no vaccine is available, you must protect yourself from the bites. This applies notably to more fragile and elderly people, and young children. Note, if you catch the infection during your stay, you are required to declare it when moving around, for health reasons.
Visit requirements: As Reunion is a French overseas 'département’ (DOM), the rules for entry and visit are the same as for metropolitan France.
Swimming: accidents, always given a lot of media coverage, remain rare, but real. The threat posed by sharks must be considered. An information system has been set up; it is essential to respect its instructions. And honestly, it’s Reunion’s high ground which makes it exceptional. You can find white sand and turquoise water everywhere else!
The ideal season to go there: if possible, avoid the hurricane season, from December to April. That’s all!
Reunion’s waters are particularly rich, and the fauna deserves a few dives. (photo: Ifremer)
