While chatting with the naval architect Alexander Simonis, he shows us a photo of his bolthole office. Through the panoramic bay window, the Cape bay is visible, with Table Mountain in the background. The colors are comparable to those of a Scottish loch. It's magical. We understand immediately why he is so attached to this part of the world, and how it inspires him. Cape Town lies on the 33rd parallel, to the north of the Cape of Good Hope, with the warm Atlantic Ocean lapping at its shores. This town, often considered to be South Africa's most beautiful, enjoys a Mediterranean climate, and the constant breeze isn't just a joy for us sailors. It also helps to temper the hot months of January, February and March...well it is the southern hemisphere!
In tennis there are four major tournaments which make up the Grand Slam. In ocean sailing there are three big Capes. Alongside Leeuwin and Horn it is one of the three legendary Capes: Good Hope. To the northwest, which can be either the last mooring before the South, or the first refuge after having navigated the fearsome Cape Agulhas, is the Cape. Or should we say THE Cape. Originally called the Cape of Storms, it was renamed Good Hope in the fifteenth century when those who were heading for the East Indies could finally start to head east after weeks of only travelling south. This is a stopover point which evokes our youth. In the wake of Vasco de Gama, sailors in round the world races with stopovers, whether solo (BOC Challenge, the forerunner of the Vendée Globe) or with crewed vessels (the famous Whitbread which became the Volvo Ocean Race), would put in here before taking on "The Indian". A few decades later, it's difficult to understand what our sailors were doing in this location with the shameful apartheid policy still being in force. But this continued, and the Rainbow Nation has been liberated.
Coming from the east, when you have got through the formidable Cape Agulhas and carried on as far as the Cape of Good Hope, then you only have another 40 nautical miles to cover before you can relax in beautiful Cape Town. The flat summit which has lent the 1087 meter Table Mountain its name means that this could only be one place. Just as it did for the 17th century Dutch navigators, the Cape's famous silhouette still provides great shelter. To make the trip by land to Cape Agulhas for example once you are safely moored is well worth doing.
A wonderful panorama from Table Mountain.
When mooring there really is only one place to go. The Royal Cape Yacht Club is pretty much a must. Founded in 1905 it has that old-fashioned charm of one of those British clubs. However, with its good management, it offers the long haul sailor all the services which he would expect at such an important mooring. This starts with an excellent restaurant which will satisfy even the largest appetites that have been stoked by so many days at sea. On leaving the Club, the town and its surroundings offer a myriad of attractions. It is worth remembering at this point though, that perhaps more than any of the world's other great cities, Cape Town can be a dangerous place. Even if the tourist areas are less exposed than the townships, it's still advisable to not walk around at night, withdraw too much money from ATMs in the street or have valuable objects on show.
However, once you take these common sense precautions, the country's most beautiful city is there to be discovered. Well that's its reputation anyway. Hugely cosmopolitan, mirroring the South Africa of the 21st century, Cape Town has a rich architectural heritage with buildings dating from the 17th and 18th century, and of course from the Victorian era. Spending half a day exploring the historic old center on foot is a unique experience, with the classicism of the British architecture (like from The Old Town House to Green Market Square) side by side with the African exoticism of the markets. Also situated in the City Bowl, and still on foot, The "Gardens" are not only a green haven of peace but also an important place for us sailors to visit, as this was historically an area of allotments which provided fresh produce for those who were sailing to the East Indies. Another visit of historical importance that's not to be missed is to the Castle of Good Hope. It is quite simply South Africa's oldest building!
And of course there's Robben Island. You can't avoid getting emotional. To feel so close to one of the most important men of the late 20th century brings a lump to the throat and a tear to the eye. Who doesn't remember where they were or what they were doing on February 11th 1990? Like a certain September 11th, but this time for positive reasons! To see Nelson Mandela quietly walking out of his prison, having been pardoned by his jailers sent an incredibly strong message of hope. He had spent 18 years in detention, suffering slave-like conditions. Even if you have been stressed out whilst crossing the Indian Ocean, cursing when you are becalmed around Saint Helena, everything will be forgotten when you are stood in front of prisoner 46664's cell. Our problems suddenly seem insignificant next to the greatness of this man and what he sacrificed. South Africa and the world owe him so much.
Make the most of your stay in Cape Town and visit the country's interior, which is well worth the detour.
A bit further on, and if your timetable allows it, going up Table Mountain will be an unforgettable experience for the crew. Especially if you take the footpaths that lead up to the summit. Suitable shoes and good weather are essential though. If in doubt, the cable car is a more reliable alternative! Although the origin of the bank of cloud which often covers its summit is the stuff of many legends, the physical reality is very evocative. Another interesting trip takes you overland to the Cape of Good Hope and allows you to almost go back in time. Take the road from Cape Peninsula and follow the hills which for centuries have formed a remarkable seamark for generations of sailors. The promise of a safe haven and a chance to relax in the middle of their dangerous navigation gives the trip a unique perspective.
But what would a good sailor be without wine? In this part of the Cape they have been cultivating vines for 350 years. Unsurprisingly it was French Huguenots who first began vine culture at the end of the 17th century. They had the advantage of fertile and varied land, hilly topography and an ideal climate. Try the Klein Constantia (in moderation of course) which is produced at the head of the peninsula.
Don't miss out on a safari in one of the country's parks. You will experience once in a lifetime emotions...
And finally, it would be a shame to stopover in Africa and not follow in the footsteps of Hemingway and go on the trail of the "Big Five?" Nowadays there's no question of going hunting or getting a trophy. It will more than likely be a photo as there is now too much respect shown for the lion, leopard, elephant, black rhinoceros and buffalo. The Addo National Park is the only area in the region where you can catch sight of all five animals. What if you feel like venturing further afield? With your boat safely moored at the Yacht Club, you might as well go and see the best. Take 3-5 days and get a plane to the Kruger National Park. It will be an unforgettable experience for the crew. We are like children when confronted by these huge mammals, and after spending a few nights in a lodge you will feel as though you are in another world. The only fly in the ointment is that the best time to visit is the winter. It's also the best time for whale watching, as they leave the Antarctic in June to mate close to the South African coasts. However, unfortunately we don't really recommend that you go sailing in these areas at this time of year.
"When you love something you have to leave", wrote Blaise Cendrars. So, no matter how attached you have become to Cape Town you will need to set off again. Head west and escape the winter in the warmth of Brazil or the West Indies. Or head east towards Australia, New Zealand and like Moitessier, why not Polynesia? At full sail, pushed by the prevailing winds and the consequent swell. Just as the South Atlantic High can hold you up for a long time, as Napoleon Bonaparte discovered, so the Indian Ocean can be violent and destructive. The advantage of this unique geographical situation is that as there is no land to hold up the wind or the sea, the meteorological information is as reliable as it can be. When a depression goes around the world, we can see it coming well in advance. This gives us the opportunity to head a few degrees north to avoid the worst of the weather. Whatever happens, with all of these amazing things to see, whichever way you are travelling, you will come back to South Africa.
Cape Town: practical info...or 2 or 3 tips
Visas: not necessary if you are staying less than 90 days. A valid passport will do. Be aware though, that when travelling with children, a proof of parenthood or guardianship translated into English by an accredited translator is necessary when entering or leaving South African territory. This applies at all of the country's border crossings.
Time Zone: UTC +2 hours
Currency: 1 Rand (ZAR) = 0.07 Euros = 0.077 USD
Safety: We might as well be frank here: the level of security in South Africa is not high. Although this is mainly concentrated around the more deprived areas, away from the tourist destinations, the wealthier areas and town centers are not immune. By respecting general good security practice and using common sense, there will normally not be any problem. At the Cape, you need to be particularly careful in the areas of Woodstock, Observatory and Bokaap. Also, avoid walking alone at night in the Long Street quarter. And finally, unless you are with someone that you trust who knows the area well, do not go into the townships.
Health: for short trips, the only recommendation is to have your diphtheria/tetanus jab up to date. If you are planning a longer stay, it's recommended to get vaccinated against typhoid and hepatitis A and B.
Water Sports: Unfortunately, although South Africa is famed for its wildlife whether land or water-based, the latter includes sharks, which are common along the whole coastline. On the Cape peninsula, the Shark Spotters organization has even put a surveillance and warning system in place. Inform yourself, especially if you do activities such as surfing.
Other Possible Stopovers in South Africa: If Port Elizabeth doesn't hold much interest for sailors, Durban, Richards Bay or East London do have their charms. No port should be neglected though, because as there is little natural shelter, particularly on the east coast. Don't hesitate to stop, even in a coal port like Port Elizabeth, or even to turn around if the weather is bad or unpredictable. The wind blowing against the current along the east coast as far as the famous Cape Agulhas can lead to the sea being particularly destructive. The golden rule in this part of the world is to not take any risks. Be patient and wait for a weather window.
Multihulls Welcome: They love their multihulls in South Africa, and there are renowned shipyards such as Leopard, one of the top three producers in the world. Getting your multihull repaired, taken out of the water or buying new kit is no problem in South Africa and especially in Cape Town. The RCYC and the Saldanha Bay are perfectly set up to welcome you too.
Distances from/to Cape Town: Port Elizabeth 422 nautical miles - Durban 800 nautical miles - La Réunion 2,166 nautical miles – Perth 4,715 nautical miles – Saint Helena 1,696 nautical miles – Ascension Island 2,396 nautical miles – Salvador de Bahia 3,336 nautical miles...
The Reference Book: South African Nautical Almanac, by Tom Morgan, available at Imray, £17
