"This is a very particular island which was uninhabited until the Englishman John Marsters decided to move there in the beginning of the 19th century. He ended up living there with three Polynesian wives. The total number of descendants from Mr Marster are close to 20.000 today! Sixty of them live on Palmerston and that is the entire population. Palmerston is a very isolated place, a supply boat comes every 2-3 months and that is the only contact with the outside world. Palmerston love visiting yachts. There is a huge lagoon but there is no pass so boats have to moor outside the reef. There is a strong tradition to welcome. Each family has their VHF and try to be the first to answer if someone calls. The first one gets to be the host! We had brought a package for Bill and his family from relatives on Aitutaki and had been strictly instructed to call by phone, not VHF, to make sure they got to host us! Due to weather, we could only stay two days in Palmerston but they were very memorable. Bill and his family came and picked us up on the boat, and took great care of us. We were there on a Sunday so we went to church with the entire island population (we visited one of the sessions, the locals do three church visits every Sunday 6.30, 10 and 16!). We ate and pried with the family. Kim played with the kids on the Saturday but was very disappointed when he learned that the kids were not allowed to play on Sundays ! Moana was moored on a buoy outside the reef, it was at 35m and our stern was at 70m. On the first day I was preparing dinner inside when I heard some strange noise outside. Christine went out in the dark to have a look and then I heard the noise again but now very loud and Christine screamed. A huge humpback whale was just next to Moana, 1- 2 meters from the hull. It made a noise almost like a roar and being so close it was really strong. Wow! It stayed close to us for a couple of minutes then left but came back an hour later, the second time just behind the boat. It was a bit scary in the dark but I guess she was just curious?"
Christine, Johan and Kim on board Moana
